A Stitch In Time
Even if you never aspire to create great fashion, knowing about the differences in fabrics, how to care for them, mend them and recognize quality will allow you to stretch your clothing and home decor dollars. Having on hand a few basic sewing supplies may allow you to significantly lengthen the lifespan of your favorite outfit or produce an entirely new one! Regardless of whether you ever intend to sew a runway masterpiece or not, it is most provident to acquire a basic set of skills and supplies
First, the skills:
1. How to identify and care for fabrics. When shopping in a retail store, can you recognize the difference in quality between one fabric and another? Do you read care labels and follow them? Do you understand the wearability and expected lifespan of a thin polyester versus silk? What about the safety factors of wool versus fleece? (Did you know that wool self-extinguishes when removed from a fire source or that fleece is not only highly flammable, but spews bits of molten fiber as it burns?) Which fabrics will fade or wear out quickly in the sun? Which fibers are best for insulating?
2. How to make simple repairs to clothing and household items. Can you sew on a button? What about a snap? Repair a hem? Re-enforce an area that is showing wear? Stitch a seam before an item is ruined? Know which iron-on products you can use to make simple repairs? How to re-enforce the buttons on a new garment?
3. How to sew a straight seam on a sewing machine. You do not need an ultra-expensive computerized embroidery machine. But, you should be able to thread a sewing machine and at least sew a straight seam.
The supplies: (For all items, watch for sales. Sign up for the JoAnn Fabrics mailers or email notices. Also check Freecycle, thrift shops and other venues for free or cheap items!)
1. Hand sewing needles. Store a variety of betweens, sharps, quilting and curved needles. In general, the short thin needles are the easiest to use with most fabrics. You should store thin and thick curved needles, as the thin ones can stitch up a cut human while the thick ones can repair leather and other thick fibers.
2. Needle threader. The sturdiest needle threader I have seen is made by Fons and Porter. Having a needle threader is a a true aid to anyone attempting to sew by hand!
3. Scissors. Set aside a pair of scissors that will only be used on fabric. Mark the scissor handle as ‘fabric only’ and sternly enforce the rule. Fiskars and Gingher are both good beginner brands. A medium length scissor is good for most applications.
4. Measuring tape. Purchase a sturdy, coated one intended for sewing. Measuring tapes will stretch over time.
5. Ruler. Store at least one 12″ ruler, A transparent one is the easiest to use while sewing.
6. Fasteners. A supply of snaps, hook & eyes, buttons, velcro and a few all-purpose zippers. If you are going to throw away a piece of clothing away, cut off and save the buttons first!
7. Sewing machine. A good, basic machine is all most folks will need. Some of the older pre-computer-days machines are sturdier than the more modern ones. With the machine, store the manual, some sewing machine oil and spare needles.
8. Sewing machine needles. Always purchase needles packaged in a hard plastic case. Needles packaged in paper/thin plastic-type packaging often have microscopic bends and knicks in them. Schmetz is a good, readily available brand. Store a variety of sizes. Sewing machine needles can also be used to remove splinters (sterilize first), hang pictures on walls and pierce a variety of materials.
9. Iron-on interfacing. A good quality iron-on knit interfacing can be used to mend small tears, re-enforce worn spots and buttons in ready-to-wear garments. If applied carefully, it can give new shape to a sagging sweater or soften rough seams. Always store with the instructions and away from heat, moisture or dust. Cover your ironing surface before using and place a piece of white paper between the interfacing and your iron.
10. A few basic patterns. Look for a variety of multi-sized skirts, dress, blouse, elastic waist pants and nightwear patterns. Patterns go on sale monthly and can often be picked up for free at community events as well as freecycle. Additional patterns are available on the internet.
11. Fabrics. Not everyone needs a true ‘fabricaholic stash’, but it would be wise to have a supply of cotton flannel, broadcloth, denim, cotton cheesecloth and wool. Sheets purchased from the clearance rack can provide a lot of yardage at little cost. (thrift store sheets are less wise to store as they are often worn unevenly and have been repeatedly washed) The flannel can be made into diapers, bedding, nightwear, re-usable sanitary products, as an insulator and for cleaning. Broadcloth can be made into garments, burial clothes, bedding and household items. Denim is nearly indestructable. Old jeans can be recycled into a variety of items. Wool is self-extinguishing, insulating and it breathes. 100% wool blankets can be used for a variety of purposes, including clothing. If you want to experiment, try felting wool by washing it several times in an electric clothes washer. Follow with a spin in the dryer. The resulting fiber is nearly water proof and incredibly warm. It won’t ravel and can be washed. Cheesecloth is used in many areas of cooking, gardening and can be turned into gauze bandages. If you want to expand from those basics, add some colors, prints and a variety of textures.
12. Thread. Store a variety of hand sewing, hand quilting, buttonhole and machine quilting threads. Have on hand at least several spools of basic thread in white, beige, black, navy and red. Purchase a good quality thread such as Gutterman or Mettler. Hand quilting thread is stronger than ‘regular’ thread and can even sew up a human cut in an emergency. It is coated to make it resistant to breaking and can tolerate more stress than regular thread. Buttonhole thread is one of the strongest threads and can be used to repair heavy-duty items. Machine quilting thread (different than hand quilting) is again coated to tolerate more times going through more layers of fabric. Remember, though, that hand quilting thread should NOT be used in a sewing machine. Thread is another item that goes on sale frequently.
13. Elastic. Store some elastic in a few widths varying from 1/4″ to 1.5″.
14. Seam ripper. Un-sewing is a part of the process! Seam rippers are good for cutting loose threads from ready-made garments, as well as picking out the thread left behind when a button falls off. The sharpest seam rippers have curved blades and were based on disposable scalpels.
15. Thimble. A leather one with a metal tip is the easiest to get used to.
16. ‘Wonder under’ and similar products. There are a variety of products on the market designed to fuse, either temporarily or permanently, two pieces of fabric together. Steam-a-seam, stitch-witchery and wonder under are all brand names of these type of products which serve different purposes. Fusibles will allow you to quickly hem an item, repair a seam, make decorative items, hold items in place while stitching, as well as a variety of other useful purposes. LIke the interfacing, cover your ironing surface and put a protective layer between the fusible and your iron. Store with the instructions, away from heat, moisture and light.
17. Pins. Straight pins — my favorites are the long ones with the colored plastic or glass heads. You can iron over the glass heads. Never sew over a pin with your sewing machine! Also store safety pins.
18. Marking tools. Plain white chalk, tailor’s chalk in blue or pink, and a sharp #2 pencil are the basics.
19. Book. Find a good, basic ‘how to’ book such as Nancy Zieman’s “Let’s Sew: A Beginner’s Sewing Guide,” which was written for children in the 4-H program. If that is too basic, add Ms. Zieman’s ‘10-20-30 Minutes to Sew’ or her “Sewing With Confidence: A Beginner’s Guide.” The next level would be “Pattern Fitting With Confidence” or “Fitting Finesse”. Nancy’s books are always clearly written with great illustrations. All of her titles can be found used or at very reasonable prices. She has been on PBS for years, her shows are repeatedly shown and always informative. (And she is a genuinely nice woman!)
20. Containers. Store all of your supplies in labeled containers away from dust, heat and light.
A bit of sewing know-how can save you countless dollars and, maybe, provide you with a wonderful creative outlet that has proven to have significant health benefits. If nothing else, hauling bolts of fabric around is aerobic exercise. 
